The LAKE OF BRACCIANO
Big parts of its sides are covered with the green of the Mediterranean bush, with forests and cultivated lands. An important and singular ring sewer encircles the lake collecting the wastewaters ending from the villages and the villas all around. Out board motorboats are not allowed, in order to limit the water pollution, so the lake become the reign and Paradise of the sails and is considered today the reserve water of Rome, in emergency.

Once upon a time a noble knight went in search of land and glory. He slew a dragon which terrorised the people of Lake Bracciano, an earthly paradise where nature had been bountiful. The Pope rewarded him with as much land as he could cover on horseback in a day and this became the estate of the Anguillara family, who bore the name of one of three townships on the most charming of Lazio's lakes.

So much for the legend; historically, the most powerful families vied for possession of one of the finest strategic locations around Rome. Their legacy is still there to admire, from the Tyrrhenian coast to Viterbo, notably in the tiny stronghold at Trevignano Romano, the other lakeside village, and in Bracciano, perched on its hilltop overlooking the lake. There in the 15th century the powerful Orsini family built its magnificent castle, still intact and open to visitors.

But before this there were already many reminders of the area's proximity to Rome. The Ancient Romans built villas and thermal baths, where soldiers returning from missions abroad would come to bathe in the mud and hot sulphurous springs. Witness the Roman baths at Vicarello, the geysers of the Caldara in Manziana woods and Canale Monterano, now preserved in its natural park. Meanwhile, nearby Stigliano and Viterbo have evolved into modern spas with all mod cons, not just for today's Romans but for foreign visitors who like the idea of a healthy holiday relaxing in water at 37°C.

The surrounding countryside is dotted with traces of Roman civilisation: roads and the aqueducts which still carry water from the lake down to Rome. The crystal-clear water of Lake Bracciano is the delight of yachtsmen, windsurfers, canoeists, anglers or those just wanting to swim and sunbathe, with no noisy motorboats. Motors are prohibited and used only by the fishermen who supply the restaurants with pike, whitefish, eel, whitebait and other freshwater specialities.

If we step further back into history, the magical lake of Bracciano reveals its oldest and finest treasures, left by the Etruscans. Shrouded in the mystery of its origins, Etruria has left unique masterpieces of architecture, painting, carved ivory, pottery, inlay and, notably, gold jewellery.

This civilisation, stretching from Lazio to Tuscany, has left traces in Trevignano (on display in the municipal museum) and all around: a few miles away at Cerveteri, on the Tyrrhenian coast, you can enjoy an unforgettable walk through the vast necropolis beneath umbrella pines, visiting the famous tombs which represent the interiors of wealthy Etruscan homes. If you want to swim or relax on the beach, the sea is just down the road.
Slightly further away, Tarquinia's necropolis contains many exquisitely frescoed Etruscan tombs. Then there is Veii, where the famous statue of Apollo was discovered, now housed in the Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia in Rome, a must for anyone interested in the superb legacy of this mysterious civilisation.
But Lake Bracciano also means unspoilt countryside, protected by a large natural park, which includes the much smaller Lake Martignano. The air is fresh and alive with birdsong. Ideally, you should explore the walks on foot, by bike or on horseback. Footpaths cross meadows and woodland, where you can see rare birds and typical Mediterranean macchia. Stop for a picnic or eat in a trattoria in one of the towns; try the regional cuisine, washed down with a good local wine; sit at a bar in one of the typical little squares and enjoy an ice-cream, espresso or cappuccino before moving on.
But you do need a car to bring several notable places within easy reach: Sutri, with its Roman amphitheatre; the tiny mediaeval stronghold of Calcata, perched high on a tufa outcrop; and Bagnoreggio, for years a personal favourite of Prince Charles. And don't miss Oriolo Romano, Blera, Vetralla, Capranica and Tuscania, with its towers and mediaeval churches.
On the lake itself there is the Museo Storico dell'Aeronautica at Vigna di Valle, which houses a valuable collection of aircraft, tracing the history of flight from Leonardo da Vinci to the present day. Another must is the garden of San Liberato, created by Russell Page around an old country house, its chapel now a favourite venue for upmarket weddings.
Despite its proximity to Rome, mass tourism has yet to discover this oasis of art, history and natural beauty. It's an ideal base for exploring Rome without being trapped in its urban chaos. The half-hourly train service reaches the capital in 40 minutes, via a direct line to St Peter's and Trastevere, with bus and metro links to all major sites. No wonder lots of Romans have abandoned the city and now commute to work. Their houses compensate for the lack of large-scale hotel facilities: B&B, holiday homes, agritourism, villas with swimming pool and campsites complement the small family-run hotels. The atmosphere is welcoming and the visitor feels a privileged guest. It's ideal for couples, families or anyone looking for a relaxing, cultural holiday within easy reach of Rome.
The last few years have seen an increasingly international presence, particularly from Holland, Northern Europe, Australia and Canada.
Lake Bracciano still seems like a fairy story, but don't spread it around too much or the spell might be broken!

Three villages face on the lake:
Anguillara, Trevignano and Bracciano. Bracciano overlooks the lake from the hill on which a nucleus grown up around the Orsini-Odescalchi castle.
Anguillara and its Historical Centre, lies down on a cape that is mirrored in the lake.
The economy of the village is mostly based on agriculture, handicraft and fishing, but in the last years the Sunday tourism from Rome also interested enormously this area.
The Traiano aqueduct departs from Vicarello. Its construction started in the year 109 B.C., in order to supply drinkable water to Rome. The aqueduct is 32 kilometres long.
Vicarello is a one thousand hectares estate, an ancient jewel of forests, pastures, olives, thermal waters that since the Roman times were thermal baths, and that only in a minimal part have been dug.