| Do
it yourself - Walking tour
A little history
Gaeta is a charming little town of about 24,000 people who are
known as Gaetani. It is situated in the Lazio region in the province
of Latina.Man has inhabited the Gaeta area since prehistoric times.
This theory has been confirmed when they found in a cave of San
Felice Circeo, a town near Gaeta, the cranium of Circeo man,
close to Neanderthal Man. Caveman relics can be seen in the Local
San Felice Circeo Museum.Greek civilization greatly influenced the
people in this area, although Gaeta was not a Greek colony. A vase
was found containing figures from the myth of Dionysus, and sculpted
by Salpion, a Greek who lived in the first century B.C. The bowl
was used as a mooring for ships in ancient times. This special bowl
and many other artifacts can be seen in the Nation Archeological
Museum in Naples.The origin of the name Gaeta is from a book written
by Virgil who lived in the 29th century B.C. This
book is the source of the stories of the birth of Rome. The story
tells of Enea, who was a refuge of Troy, who came to this area
looking for new land, as Troy had been destroyed. He came here in
a ship with the survivors. Among these survivors was his wet nurse
whose name was Gajeta. She died in this area, Gajeta, later changed
to Gaeta.During roman times, Gaeta was known as a famous resort
with a good harbor for ships. The Via Flacca, (known as Rome Road)
leading towards the town of Sperionga was lined with beautiful villas,
gardens, swimming pools and mausoleums. The best-preserved villa
is Villa Tiberio, located just below the Sperlonga Museum. Two Mausoleums
are still in Gaeta: Plancus Mausoleum on Monte Orlando, which is
the best preserved one in all of Italy, and Atratino Mausoleum,
just a block off "Rome Road" on Via Atratina, which is
in poor condition because many of the stones were removed during
the middle ages in order to build local churches. During
the middle ages, Gaeta became a fortified city. It was naturally
fortified because of its position on a promontory of land jutting
out into the sea. Towers and walls were built around it and it became
a castrum. These medieval walls can still be seen today on the promenade
to the old Gaeta. At one time you could not see the sea from the
waterfront road.In the ninth century, Gaeta separated from the Byzantine
government and became an autonomous Dukedom. It successfully
fought the Saracens.It was ruled by the Norman Dukes in the 11th
century, by the Sicilians in the 12th century, and then
had Anjou and Aragonese rulers.It was the northernmost line of the
Bourbons during their reign over the Kingdom of Naples. In 1848,
Pope Pius IX took refuge here.
He coined the doctrine of the Immaculate Conception in the Annunziata,
a local church. He also elevated the status of Gaeta to an Archbishop.
In 1870, Gaeta came a part of Unified Italy. It was heavily damaged
during World War II, but has since been rebuilt and is presently
a fishing center and a resort town because of the beautiful Serapo
Beach and marvelous shores. Half day walking tour
(Takes approx. 3 hours) Madonna della Soledad
Start from the Central post office, at the beginning of the promenade
of Old Gaeta. Go down to the left. There is a small chapel of the
Madonna della Soledad, built in 1661 by Spanish governor Alfonso
de Montroy. In the old days that was the second entrance to the
city. Fisherman used to pay homage to the special Madonna before
they would go fishing and also on their return trip. Further ahead,
there is the first door to the entrance of Gaeta, the sign says
"Porta di Carlo V."Montagna Spaccata or "split mountain"
Come back and proceed along the road, which is called Lungomare
Caboto. At the Italian Post Office, ''Ufficio Postale", turn
left onto Via Firenze. Go toward the Mirasole. Take your first left
and go up the hill. Follow the yellow and black signs marked Santuario
M. Spaccata and Mausoleo M. Planco.Continue straight ahead to Montagna
Spaccata and Mausoleo M. Planco whose hours of operation are:
0800-1200 and from 1500-dusk There is no smoking or eating allowed
and you must wear suitable clothes-no shorts!
Go straight through the right-hand arch for bathrooms (bagni W.C.)
The left-hand door marked "Alla Montagna Spaccata" leads
you to Split Mountain. There is a 1,000 lire charge to go through.
Usually there is a priest in a little window to your left.
According to the legend, the mountain split three ways after the
death of Christ. The blue belvedere sign will take you to a look-out
point of the Serapo Beach and the Old Gaeta Promontory.
Go through the small passageway with tiled pictures on the walls.
These pictures represent the Station of the Cross. The Station of
the Cross is a special procession that Catholic people do during
the Lent season, before Easter. The priest stops at each picture
and says a prayer commemorating the passion of Christ before his
death.
Raimondo Bruno painted these particular pictures in 1849.
At the end of the passage is the Chapel of San Filippo Neri. Above
the entry to this chapel is the fall painting of all the stations,
plus a painting of the Last Supper. The painter called this grouping
'The Passion of Jesus Christ Our Lord." Inside the chapel is
a picture of Christ in Gethsemane and a bust of Philippus Neri.
You will see a door to the right, which leads to what used to be
the burial place of the monks. At the left are stairs, which descend
through a split in the mountain to the Chapel of S S Crucifix (S.S.
Crocefisso.)
On the right as you descend the stairs you will see a large hand
print with a sign underneath. According to the legend, a Turk, who
did not believe that the rock had split at the death of Jesus, touched
the rock and said, "If this is true, then let this rock become
liquid." As he spoke, the rock liquefied and gave way to the
imprint of his hand. As you go down the stairs, you will notice
small circles with different symbols impressed in the rock. They
represent different special visits to this shrine. One from different
saints and nobility personnel that come to visit the Mountain.
Go all the way down into the special Chapel of the Crucifix. The
Crucifix is wood from 500's. After viewing the small chapel, ascend
the staircase on your left. There is a magnificent view of the split
rock and the sea coming between the split.
Walk back to the front gate. Turn to the right and enter the Monastery.
It was originally built in 1071 on top of Munatius Plancus Villa.
This Monastery, actually known more as a shrine (people come from
everywhere to pray for special grace) was very important and was
autonomous. It was destroyed several times, but has always
been rebuilt
Upon leaving the church, turn to the right, For 1,000 lire per person,
you can go down about 200 steps to the Grotta del Turco, a cave
where the first split occurred. Turks took refuge in this cave,
which is why it was named for them. It is a long and dangerous walk
to the bottom.
Above the Split Mountain Sanctuary are the Roman remains of the
villa of Munatius Plancus, including the wall in the opus reticulate
style and Roman water reservoirs. From Post Office turn direction
old Gaeta. At Vic's Bar, cross over to the other side of the street
proceeding down the waterfront in the same direction. Passing the
tennis courts you will come to a brick wall. Continue along the
wall until the opening on your right This is the:Annunziata Church
 On
your right you will see a large Baroque Church called the Annunziata.
It was built in the 14 century, but was altered many times. It contains
well-known paintings by Sebastiano Conca and Luca Giordano.
The beautiful wooden choir is from the 17th century.
Behind this church is a chapel called the Grotta d'oro. It has a
gold-plated caisson ceiling and contains many well-known paintings
by Criscuolo and Pulzone. It was here that Pope Pius
IX formulated his doctrine of the Immaculate Conception. You can
look at this church almost anytime, even if the church is closed,
just go to the third side entrance (look for a yellow sign) and
ring the bell. Usually the nuns are there and they will show you
the church and the Golden Chapel. The nuns are there and they will
show you the church and the Golden Chapel. The nuns do not ask for
any money, but they do accept tips. If you leave the church from
the side door, look directly across the street for steps by the
blue and white Fermata sign. Walk up the steps it says "Salita
Annunziata." At the top of the stops make a left turn where
you will see the remains of a Romanesque church. Continue straight
ahead to see a view of the Aragonese-Angioino Castle. On the right
you will see the:Church of San Francesco.
This chuch is neo-gothic style and is built in the form of a Latin
cross with a nave and two aisles. Don't miss the view of Gaeta from
this church. From the G. Caboto Piazza this chuch can be viewed
when lighted at night. This church may only be opened during church
services in the morning about 0700 and in the evening about 1800
or on Sunday at 0700 until 1300 and in the evening about 1800.
'>Facing the front of the church, proceed up the road to the left
Keep going straight and follow the road down the hill. At the bottom
make an S-curve and proceed up to the castle. On the way up to the
castle, you will come to a 15th century Aragonese house.
Look for a yellow sign, which reads: "Supposedly built in the
15th century Aragonese house. Severely damaged by airplane
bombs during World War II, it was completely reconstructed in 1970
by private initiatives, society for Reconstructing Medieval Gaeta-Rome.
Anjou-Aragonese Castle
Look for a yellow sign on the wall of the Anjou-Aragonese Castle
on the right-hand side which reads:  "Anjou-Aragonese
Castle begun at the end of The 10th century. Expanded
by the Normans and Frederick II. Reconstructed by Charies I of Anjou,
Alfred of Aragon and Charies V. Rectangular plan - 3 cylindrical
towers.
Bastion
- Mazzini was a prisoner 8/15 —10/15, 1870." The lower part
of the castle is Anjou and upper part is Aragonese. Although in
former times this castle was richly decorated, at present the inside
is used for special classes for the Military. Continue down Via
Aragonese.
On your left is a beautiful view of the bell tower of the Duomo
of Gaeta.
On your right are two churches: The San Domenico Chuch and the Santa
Caterina Church. These two churches are usually closed except for
early morning and evenings when they have services. The Church of
San Domenico is being restored. Look for the sign, which reads:
"Church of San Domenico Gaeta. A Neo-Gothic work with two unequal
naves built in 1400 by Alfonso of Aragon. Consecrated by Bishop
Ortiz November 11, 1470. Inside frescoes by Mattia Preti and Gravestones,
marble inscriptions, coat of arms and decorations are of considerable
value."
Continue winding around the promontory and enjoy the beautiful views.
Make the hairpin curves down the hill. At the bottom you will continue
to the waterfront. You will be on Via Santa Maria Bausan. On your
right is the Coast Guard School. On your left is the beautiful little
10th century church of San Giovanni a Mare. The inside
of the church contains frescoes dating back to the 14th
century. In front of the church is a plaque, which reads: "Church
of San Giovanni a Mare. Built in 10th century. Romanesque
basilica plan with 3 naves. Byzantine cupola wall frescoes. Altar
frontal from the 14th century. Constructed from a Roman
sarcophagus. " To get into the church, ask at the restaurant
"La Gaeta", they will be able to get in touch with
the woman who has the keys to the church.
Continue along the waterfront noticing the bell tower with arches
and mullion windows.
Roman columns, stones and sarcophagi, depicting the biblical Jona
being swallowed by the sea. Follow the walkway on the left side
of the church. GO behind the church and turn right. Behind the church
to the left is the museum Diocesi. Duomo and the Diocesi Museum:
Duomo of Gaeta is the main church of the town. Its style is heterogeneous
because it has been reconstructed so many times.
The facade is Neo-Gothic and was constructed in 1908. Inside there
is a 13th century Pascal candle that illustrates stories
from the lives of Jesus and Saint Erasmus; he is the patron saint
of Gaeta. On the main altar there is a painting of his martyrdom,
15th century painting done by C. Saraceni. Go down the
steps if the chain is open, or asks the priest, to go
look at the beautiful marble chapel dedicated to Saint Erasmus.
Again, this church is only opened during church services either
in the morning or in the late afternoon. If you have a group of
person, you can have it open on special hours.
To the left of the church is the Museo Diocensano which contains
paintings from the 13th century to the 18th
century. It is open only on Sundays from 0900 to 1100.
Gaeta Museum
Proceed down the road to the Piazza Papa Gelasio where the tree
line begins. On tile right you will find the Centro Storico di Gaeta,
a small museum containing frescoes from medieval churches, Roman
artifact rotating exhibits and a library. Posters and Italian books
on local history are sold here. The Gaeta Museum is open Monday
through Saturday from 1600 - 1900 and Sunday from 1000 - 1200. The
entrance is free of charge. There is a collection of all the paintings
that were in various churches of Gaeta.
When leaving the museum, proceed straight ahead on the left side
of the road passing by all the shops. You will also pass by a yellow
sign, which says, "Antico Palazzo Municipale" or Old Municipal
Palace built in 1475 by Fenrrante De Aragone. It was then restored
in 1852 by Ferdinando of Bourbon.Follow the road to the right passing
by a small central plaza - a monument for those military members
who have died in battle. Continue on, ending your tour at the central
post office. Monte Orlando and the Mausoleum of Munatius Plancus
When you come out of the Split Mountain Sanctuary, go straight.
Make your first right and follow the Mausoleo M. Planco sign. Take
a wide left sweep and right hairpin turn at the Stabilimento Grafico
Military sign. If you go past a shed for city busses, you have missed
the turn. Continue making hairpin turns to the top of Monte Orlando;
come up to a little square with a modem ruin on the left. In the
summer there is a bar open- A sharp left turn leads you to
a statue of Mary and Jesus. From here, you can get an overview
of Gaeta, You are now on Monte Oriando, which is a promontory jutting
out into the Bay of Gaeta. On your left is the Serapo Quarter with
its beautiful beaches and the Tyrhenian Sea. On your right is the
modern Porto Salvo Quarter, which races the Gulf of Gaeta. Below
you, but not visible, is the Sant’ Erasmo Quarter, which consists
of the walled medieval city.
Return to the square and take the road between the bar and the ruin,
which will lead you to the Mausoleum of Munatium Plancus. Plancus
was one of Caesar's generals.
He died in 22 B.C. and was buried in this mausoleum. Around the
outside of the mausoleum symbols of war can be seen- Over the entrance
is a plaque which reads:
“Lucius Munatius Plancus, son of Lucius, grandson of Lucius
and great grandson of Lucius, consulcensor, twice general, member
of the seven-man college of epulones, triumphed over the Raeti,
with booty from the war, built the Temple of Saturn, created the
territory of Beneventum in Italy and founded the colonies of Lyons
and Raurica (Basel) in Gaul."
This mausoleum is the most complete tomb of its type in the country.
It is forty-five feet high and ninety-seven feet wide. The inside
contains a circular hall with four funerary chambers leading off
it, a plan that shows the influence of the Etruscan Tomb at Cervetri.
Beside the entrance is a small ladder. This leads to the top of
the tomb. From here the entire panorama of Gaeta can be viewed.
To visit the mausoleum during the winter, you must call the Commune
of Gaeta at least one day before and they will have someone open
it. During the months of July and August they have various hours.
It usually changes from year to year. The entrance is usually free
of charge, but it is very hard to find open. However, it is well
worth a hike up there for the view.
Come down from the mausoleum; proceed back down the hill the same
way you went up from the central post office.
|
