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POMPEII
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Do it yourself - Walking tour DIRECTIONS: |
by courtesy of
Mr Nikolay Tatarchuck 
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By car:
- On the Napoli’s Tangenziale you will pass exits such
as Agnano, Fuorigrotta, Arenella, etc. At the end of the
Tangenziale you will be required to pay Lit 1,100 toll.
- Continue past the tollbooth, passing the Capodichino
airport exit.
- Here the road splits into two Autostradas. Autostrada
A-1 to Rome (North) and Autostrada A-3 to Salerno (South).
- Take Autostrada A-3 towards Salerno, passing exit to
Ercolano. Exit at Pompei Scavi (Ruins).
By train:
- Take Circumvesuviana
train from Napoli Piazza Garibaldi towards Sorrento,
getting off at Pompeii V.M. (Villa dei Misteri)
- Please also note: Above prices are approximate.
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by courtesy
of Mr Nikolay Tatarchuck
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A LITTLE HISTORY
Pompei, one the Campanian towns buried by the Vesuvius
eruption of 79 A.D. is the supreme example of the large scale
evocation of the past and had provided the foundation of our
knowledge of the domestic life of the ancients. Here we see
the reater part of the town as it was when disaster overtook
it 1900 years ago.The streets were paved in the Roman period
with large polygonal blocks of vesuvian lava and are bordered
by curbed foot pavements. In nearly all the roadways, at regular
intervals are stepping stones for pedestrians. |
| These stones
did not interfere with the heavy vehicles, which have
left deep ruts in the roadway.Archaeologists have devised
a street plan, which divides the town into nine regions. These
generally consist of a group of dwellings but may be wholly
occupied by one building. The dwellings at Pompei exemplify
the evolution of domestic architecture from the italic model
of the 4th and 3rd century B.C. to the Roman Empire of the
1st century A.D.The main feature of Pompeian house was the
"Atrium" or interior court, with the entrance to
the Tablinum" or living room at the opposite side, where
the family dined and received their guests. to the right and
left were "Cubicola" or bedrooms and the "Cellae"
used for various purposes. Among the most striking attractions
of Pompei are the frescoes painted on its stucco-covered walls.
The colors are very vivid, red and yellow predominating.The
excavation may be entered either on the South by Porta Marina,
or on the North by Porta Nolana- At least 4 hours are necessary
for an adequate visit. Luncheon may be obtained at the local
"Posto di Ristoro". In hot weather the absence of
shade is noticeable. Flat, comfortable shoes are the most
appropriate for the uneven streets.For a better view of the
town of Pompei, topographic chart is recommended; for more
comprehensive knowledge, a local official guide is suggested.Open
to the public: Daily from 9:00 a.m. until one hour before
sunset. Cost is Lit 16,000 per person.SUGGESTED TOURFrom
the Pompei Scavi-Villa dei Misteri station of the Circumvesuviana
Railway it is only a short stroll to the main
entrance of the excavations at Porta Marina. Just follow
the crowds. Before entering, you might want to purchase an
illustrated guidebook in English to help identify the sights.
Once inside you can, if you wish, engage the services of an
authorized guide who will take you and probably several other
English-speaking people around on a tour lasting about one
hour. These usually cover only the highlights nearest the
entrance, but are useful as an introduction before seeing
the rest of the digs on your own. They also have the advantage
of pointing out some little-known features, such as the racy
frescoes hidden behind cloth drapes.The do-it-yourself tour
outlined below leads you to all of the favorite attractions,
as well as some that are not so well known. Pass through the
arches of the Porta Marina gate and walk uphill. To your right
are the ruins of the Basilica, the largest building
in Pompeii, which once held law courts and business offices
and may date from about 120 B.C.The front of the Basilica
opens onto the Forum, the civic center around which
were grouped important public buildings. On its western side
is the Temple of Apollo, built in the 3rd century B.C.,
and just north of that the Horreum, a shop probably
selling grain, which is now used as a deposit for archaeological
finds. The Temple of Jupiter, from the 2nd century
B.C., doses off the northern side of the huge square. It was
dedicated to Juno, Minerva, and Jupiter.On the eastern side
of the Forum is the Building of Eumachia, a wool market with
a beautifully decorated doorway. Next to this is the Temple
of Vespasian, dedicated to the worship of the emperor,
which has an interesting altar depicting the scene of a sacrifice.
Finally, there is the Macellum, a large covered market.Leave
the Forum by its northern end and pass the modern restaurant-cafeteria,
which also has souvenir shops and restrooms. On the right
is the Temple of Fortuna Augusta, erected in A.D. 3
as a place to worship the emperor Augustus. Adjoining the
restaurant are the Forum Baths, parts of which are
in good condition. Step inside to see the rather elegant marble
washbasin whose bronze letters proclaim the names of those
who paid for it-along with the price.A left on Via delle Terme
brings you to the House of the Tragic Poet, a nice
middle-class dwelling named after a mosaic found in it but
now in the Naples Museum, where many of Pompeii's movable
treasures are on display. The entrance floor has a mosaic
of a dog with the words Cave Canem (Beware of the Dog).
You will find stray dogs all over Pompeii, and could reasonably
conclude that they are reincarnations of ancient Romans, paying
for the sins of their past. The enormous house next to this,
the Casa di Pansa, dates from the Samnite age and was
divided into small rental apartments.Now turn around and follow
Via della Fortuna to the noted House of the Faun, a luxurious
home-one of the best in the Roman world-which is reputed to
have belonged to the nephew of the 2nd-century-B.C. dictator
Sulla. Its magnificent bronze statute of a faun is a copy-the
original is in Naples-. Return to Via di Mercurio and turn
right to the House of the Large Fountain, whose main feature
is-you guessed it-a large fountain. This has some wonderful
Egyptian-style mosaics in colored glass.Possibly the most
famous dwelling in town is the House of the Vetti,
which might also be called the House of the Dirty Pictures.
The fabulous wall decorations reflect the sophisticated task
of its wealthy owners and were the height of fashion
in the last ten years of Pompeii's existenceThe notorious
obscene statue near the entrance and the pornographic frescoes
in one of the rooms may be covered, but you
can ask the guard for a peek.Nearby, on Via del Vesuvio, is
the House of the Golden Cupids, possibly owned by a
relative of Nero. Its splendid interior is in excellent condition.
Continue on past the Bakeries and Mills on Vico Storto
and follow the map to the ten-bed Brothel on Vicolo
del Lupanare. The wall pictures here advertise the various
services that used to be availableJust a few steps away are
the Stabian Baths, the oldest in Pompeii, probably
begun in the 4th century B.C. The extremely well preserved
interior should not be missed. You are now on the Via dell'
Abbondanza, a largely commercial street stretching from the
Forum to the eastern end of town. Some of its buildings are
decorated with fascinating graffiti. Note the groove marks
left in the pavement by heavy wagon wheels, and the stepping-stones
for crossing the street, which also served as a storm sewer.Continue
on past the Fullonica Stephani, a well-preserved laundry,
and the snack bar which, judging from the graffiti,
also served girls along with wine and prepared food. Farther
down the main road is the House of Loreius Tibertinue,
also known as the Casa di Octavius Quartio, another rich house
in a fine state of repair. A block beyond it is the Villa
of Julia Felix, which has been restored and certainly
merits a visit.Every Roman town of any importance had an arena,
but the Amphitheater of Pompeii, built in 80 B.C.,
is the oldest one known to exist. It is still in splendid
condition. Next to it is the Palestra, a training ground
for athletes.Return to Via dell' Abbondanza and retrace your
steps as far as the Casa del Criptoportico, whose underground
passages were used for wine storage. When Vesuvious erupted,
several people took refuge there, but were buried alive as
they tried to escape. Plaster casts of the void left by their
bodies may be seen in the crypt. To the south of this is the
great House of Menander, an elegant and richly decorated
villa which is among the best-preserved in town.The route
now leads to the Small Theater, dating from the earliest
Roman colonization. Next to it is the Large Theater,
accommodating 5,000 spectators. Originally from the 5th century
B.C., it was rebuilt in the 1st century A.D. On its north
side is the Temple of Isis, curiously dedicated to
an Egyptian goddess, while to the south is the Court of
the Gladiators, built as a refuge for tired audiences
during the long theatrical performances. It was later used
as a barracks for gladiators. To the west side of the theater
complex is the Triangular Forum, whose tiny temple
may date from the 6th century B.C.One more major sight remains
to be seen, and that is outside the excavation site proper-although
the same entrance ticket is valid. If the Porta Ercolano gate,
in the northwest corner, is open you can get there by going
through it. Otherwise return to the Porta Marina gate and
follow around past the train station to the fabulous but seldom
visited Villa of the Mysteries. Once the suburban home
of a wealthy couple, it is famous for its frescoes depicting
the initiation of a bride into the mysteries of the secret
cult of Dionysus. These are in a room to the right of the
entrance, and are well worth the walk. |
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