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SIENA
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Back to the Tuscan Excursion list |
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SELF-GUIDED EXCURSION
DIRECTIONS:
By car:
A short way (60 km. about) from Florence throughout Greve
in Chianti, the real centre of Chianti Gallo Nero
By train:
The easiest way is to join Florence from Rome or Milan.
A train connects Florence to Siena. Siena's railroad station
is outside the town, and it's an expensive taxi ride to
the city centre. So the best option is to take the SITA
bus from Florence railway station to Siena's Piazza Antonio
Gramsci, which is very close to Siena's main pedestrian
access.
A little History
Siena is one of the best-preserved medieval Italian
cities. The Renaissance did not leave many signs here and
the town still looks much as it was in the Middle Age. The
unique atmosphere in the walled part of the city will be
felt walking in the narrow streets and in the squares, historical
or not. Churches and museums are numerous and the historic
but lively university town will bring the visitor back to
the past. The artistic patrimony of Siena, encircled by
the vineyards and the typical olive trees of the Tuscan
landscape, perfectly reflects the splendour that characterized
this town in medieval Age and Renaissance. The entire city
constitutes moreover a vivid example of the high caught
up levels from the gothic Italian.
The legend tells that Senio and Ascanio, twin sons of Remus,
the brother of Romulus, and founder of Rome, founded Siena.
They built a temple to Apollo in which they placed the statue
of the she-wolf brought from Rome, then built a wall around
the village to defend it, fearing attacks from Rome. The
Romans did not succeed in conquering the fortress and Senio,
however, soon triumphed, and the Romans surrendered. Their
horses were taken to the area called "Stabukum Regis",
the present day Stalloreggi.
This is only a legend. Founded by the Etruscans and then
roman colony in 30 A.D.
The fortifications were strengthened by the construction
of high walls after the fall of the Roman Empire, when barbarians
came from Northern Europe.
The power passed from the Lombards - a certain Willerad,
who lived in Siena in 678 - to the Franks, led by Count
Alderico, having defeated the Lombards.
Under Alderico the church had a strong influence in Siena
and great works were carried out, the most important being
the pilgrims and travellers road "Via Francigena"
that linked Rome and France. The city began to grow when
the aristocracy, cooperating with the well-established ecclesiastic
power, gave several consuls to Siena. Castles, the silver
mines of Montieri and new territories were annexed between
1158 and 1181, economic and military power growing enormously.
Siena became in the middle Ages a commune, becoming, in
1186, independent from Episcopal power that until then had
dominated the city.
To characterize this period of the history of Siena it is
the secular rivalry with Florence, originated from the fight
for the possession of the alum mines, necessary material
to the manufacture of the wool, in that age primary activity
of Florentine bourgeoisie .
The contrast between the two cities caught reached its climaxwith
the crash between the factions flourishing factions of Guelfi
(the supporters of the Papacy), and the Ghibellines (supporters
of the Empire), ended with the Victoria of the second ones,
in the epic battle of Montaperti of 1260 when the Ghibelline
Siena won against Florentine.
Dante Alighieri wrote that the deaths "made the river
Arbia run red".
The exploitation of alum transformed Siena in an economic
power: the local financial institutions succeeded in granting
huge loans to the Papacy and establishing relationships
and trades with London, Marseilles and northern Europe.
It was this prosperity to allow the Senesi to build up magnificent
palaces and churches, extraordinary monuments such as the
Duomo, the Palazzo Pubblico and the Torre del Mangia.
In the XVI century the city entered to make part of the
Granducato of Tuscany, under the government of Cosimo de'
Medici. In this age the business and banking activities
had an arrest and in XVII the century the fights between
factions started again and a short dominion of the Milan
family of the Visconti marked the end of the greatness of
the city.
In 1801, Siena became part of the Kingdom of Etruria and
capital of the Department of Ombrone. In 1817, the first
political movements took place towards the independence
of Italy and in 1848 Siena took part with some volunteers
from the university. On 20th February 1849, the Italian
Republic was proclaimed. |
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A PUBLIC SQUARE LIKE A SHELL |
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The heart of Siena is the Public Piazza Del Campo, which the
legend tells to be inspired to the mantle that covered the
Virgin when it appeared to the Senesi during the battle of
Montaperti. In this semicircular public square met the three
ancient roads that crossed the city (one from Rome, one from
Florence and one from the Maremma) and towards it slope three
hills on which the town extends. Its shapes, that remembers
that of a shell, and its light slope ulteriorly are emphasized
by the paving. The nine gibes that go up to aureole from the
inferior part of the public square symbolize the Council of
that Nine Good Men who governed the city from 1287 to 1335,
period in which Siena grew with prosperity. On the inferior
part of the public square the Communal Palace is a harmonious
example of civil gothic architecture. Light and impressive
at the same time, with windows in three ogives and a slightly
concave facade adorned with merlature. The lower parts are
characterized by the typical Senese archs, which consist in
a lowered and inserted arc to sixth acute in another arc to
sixth acute. Inside is the civic Museum where there are the
most important works of the famous Senese pictorial school.
The XIV century Tower of Mangia dominates the Public Palace,
with a stone bell cell on the top. |
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PALIO |
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The Palio of Siena has extremely old origins.
In the 1100s, horse races were held in the city streets,
and these gradually led to the Palio. During the Medicea
domination, in the XVI century, the tradition of the PALIO
took place in Siena. The starting point was Porta Romana
and the finishing line was the Duomo. It was called the
"Long Palio" to distinguish it from the "Round
Palio", which later took place in Piazza del Campo.
Even in those days, the contradas paraded in Piazza del
Campo with flag displays and allegorical processions. It
is a horse race launched in an unbridled long gallop without
saddleback along the perimeter of the Public Piazza del
Campo. The competition is kept still today and calls passionate
and curious from all over the world: the ancient times are
lived again, with the alliances of quarter (contrade) and
the secular rivalries. Only ten contradas were permitted
to take part in any Palio. The contradas were drawn by lot,
as they are today. The seven contradas not involved in July
automatically had the right to run in August. The desire
to win was such that it often led to violent disputes between
the contradas Two times in the year, in July and August,
after a scenic parade in medieval dresses and adorned of
sbandieratori, the horses and the fantini of the 17 contrade
of Siena contend the "Palio" (a heraldic banner)
in front of a crowd of Senesi overflowed of excitation,
in a moving contest without rules, during which the blows
and the lashes between fantini are admitted also and that
it can be won also by an excited horse that have unsaddled
the knight. |
A MASTERPIECE OF ELEGANCE:
THE DOME |

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Situated in the highest point of the city, the dome of Saint
Maria is one of the most reliable examples of the Italian
Romanesque-gothic architecture; monumental work of the religious
architecture of the XIII century, was built up on pre-existing
cathedral, begun in 1229 and finished at the end of XIV century.
At the end of XIII century Giovanni Pisano decorated the inferior
part of the facade and its magnificent portal, considered
among the most typical Italian gothic. The advanced part of
the facade is a work of Giovanni di Cecco, in XIV the century.
The very beautiful cupola and the bell tower, built in 1313,
is an exemplary work of Romanesque style. The outside of the
church does not introduce the typical buttress of the gothic,
while the entire facade is covered with white Carrara marble
crossed by bands green marble from Prato.As far as the inside,
divided in 3 nave. Under the apse of the dome the baptistery,
adorned by frescoes of the XIV century. Remarkable is the
christening font, a work of Jacopo Della Quercia (1417-1430),
decorated with statues and bronze bas-relief. Among the works
to emphasize for their artistic value as symbols of Italian
gothic sculpture, are to be mentioned the marble Pulpit by
Nicholas Pisano and its students, finished in 1268, and the
rinascimental Piccolomini bookcase (from cardinal Todeschini
Piccolomini), enriched by worth frescoes of Pinturicchio.
The same covering as the façade is repeated also inside
with worthy and famous floorings, realized by a group of forty
artists (XIV-XVI century). They do not constitute the only
attraction, in fact very important is also the antiphonarys
embellished with miniatures considered masterpieces of the
entire XV century. |
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THE PINACOTECA NAZIONALE
The collection was begun by Abbot Giuseppe Ciaccheri in
late XVIII the century. The collection was later enlarged
by private and public donations and with coming of works
from the abolition of churches and convents. There are roughly
700 paintings of the greatest Sienese masters and painters.
In 1930 it passes to the State and it comes therefore placed
in the center, in two splendid palaces, the late-gotico
Buonsignori palace (restored in XIX) and the XIV century
Brigidi.
Inside of the Pinacoteca it is possible to admire an important
collection of senese painting works of great masters such
as Duccio di Buoninsegna, Ambrogio and Peter Lorenzetti,
Sassetta, Sodoma and Beccafumi, from the XIII to XVII century.
The Spannocchi collection enriched the Pinacoteca with paintings
of Nordic and Flemish masters, among whom Duerer. In 1997
was inaugurated the section of the Sculptures collecting
sculptures of Senese masters of the XIV-XV century, in part
never exposed before to the public. To be visited the beautiful
rooms of Beccafumi. |
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MUSEUM OF THE OPERA
When the first three arches of the right nave of the so-called
"Duomo Nuovo" whose construction was interrupted
after 1348 were closed off, a space was created which now
houses the cathedral museum. It is located in the center,
in a building near the Dome.
The greatest attractions are represented by the Maestà
di Duccio di Buoninsegna and the view of the city and the
outskirtses that are enjoyed from the so-called "Facciatone".
The Maestà, the tables of senese school, the interesting
collection of oreficeria objects and the majestic statuaria
of Nicholas Pisano, Donatello, City from Cortona, Jacopo
Della Quercia and above all Giovanni Pisano are proposed
to the admiration of the visitors. Paintings, sculptures,
sacred ornaments and vestments, jewellery, and illuminated
manuscripts offer an exhaustive insight into the city's
artistic culture. The collection includes works of art coming
from works the cathedral and the baptistry, from the oratories
of S. Giovannino and S. Gennaro, and other churches in the
diocese of Siena, removed from their original settings over
the centuries. Two very important works of Italian art are
also exhibited in the museum: the statues sculpted by Giovanni
Pisano for the cathedral's façade, removed in the
middle of the last century, and Duccio di Buoninsegna's
(1255c.-1318/19) famous Maestà, painted for the high
altar.
Numerous other masterpieces can be admired in the museum's
thirteen rooms; Duccio's Madonna of Crevole, Pietro Lorenzetti's
Nativity of the Virgin, the sermons of St. Bernardino in
Piazza del Campo and Piazza S.Francesco, Domenico Beccafumi's
St. Paul, as well as two canvases by Matteo di Giovanni.
It is worth admiring the reliquary and crown of St. Galgano
among the jewellery collection as well as the precious liturgical
ornaments in gold, silver, enamel and rock crystal of the
Cappella della Madonna del Voto. The stunning collection
of wooden sculptures includes works by Jacopo della Quercia(1374?-1438),
Francesco di Valdambrino, and Francesco di Giorgio Martini
(1284-1344). |
| LIBRERIA
PICCOLOMINI |
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Foundedby the cardinal Francisco Piccolomini (then Pope Pio
III), the construction of this Library was begun in 1492.
in order to house the extensive collection of books belonging
to his uncle Enea Silvio Piccolomini (Pope Pius II). The marmoreal
facade is work of Marrina (1497), while Pinturicchio executed
(1502-9) the entire pittorica decoration, perfectly preserved.
Its frescoes represent episodes of the devout life of Pio
II, except the one on the entrance portal that represents
the devout coronation of Pio III. In the center is placed
the famous scultoreo group of Tre Grazie, the III century
roman copy of the original Greek one, purposely purchased
by the cardinal Francisco Piccolomini for the Library. There
are collected the splendid chorales from Libero Da Verona,
Girolamo Da Cremona and others in 1469-75, pertaining to the
Dome and the Spedale di Santa Maria of the Scale. |
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BATTISTERO DI SAN GIOVANNI |
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Baptistery, called also Pieve di San Giovanni, was built between
1316-25. The façade, entirely built with marble, was
made between 1317 and 1382 but remained unfinished. It occupies
a large space beneath the last two bays of the extended choir
of the Cathedral and its interior is rectangular in plan,
divided into three aisles by two robust pillars. The ceiling
is covered with frescoes of the XV century, by Vecchietta,
Benvenuto di Giovanni, Pietro degli Orioli In the center of
the Baptistry the christening font is placed, the greatest
art treasure of the Battistero, a masterpiece of the Early
Renaissance design of which is is attributed to Iacopo della
Quercia, with reliefs and stautues, gilt brass, work of Lorenzo
Ghiberti, Iacopo della Quercia. |
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ORATORIO DI SAN BERNARDINO
This building is divided into two floors: the lower oratory,
painted by the most famous sienese artists in the XV sec.,
and the upper oratory, with a lacunar ceiling and walls
entirely painted with the History of the Virgin by Pacchia,
Sodoma, Domenico Beccafumi in the XIV sec. Next to the oratory,
there is The Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra, in which are
conserved frescoes by Pietro and Ambrogio Lorenzetti and
tables from XIV to XVI |
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SANTA MARIA DELLA SCALA
The immense complex of Saint Maria of the Scale (350,000
cubic meters), Situated opposite the cathedral's façade,
served as a hospital for many years.
Built in the 12th century by Beato Sorore, it was in fact
the oldest hospital in Europe.
After the exhaustion of the sanitary functions, is progressively
opening new spaces to the public.
Nearly all the great senesi artists have worked for the
Saint Maria of the Scale, a lot that this is considered
the third artistic pole of the city together with the Public
Palace and the cathedral, that it is placed just opposite
it.
The most famous room is the Sala del Pellegrinaio, with
its XV century frescoes depicting the history and life of
Santa Maria della Scala painted by Domenico Bartolo, with
the collaboration of other painters, including Vecchietta.
Among the smaller rooms it is worth noting the Sagrestia
Vecchia, the Cappella delle Reliquie with the lunette by
Domenico Beccafumi, the Cappella della Madonna and the Chiesa
della SS.ma Annunziata. The Marcacci, Novaro and Stretta
rooms host the Archeological Museum of Siena, which exhibits
articles found mainly in the Siena and Chiusi areas.
The building also houses the Museo Archeologico which exposes
a remarkable archaeological complexes, archaeological finds
of preistorica, Etruscan and Roman age, testifying the evolution
of the civilization in the senese territory. |
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MUSEO CIVICO
The Museo Civico is placed in the Palazzo Pubblico and
has several rooms. Among the most important of these is
the Sala del Mappamondo, which hosts Simone Martini's Maestà,
the Sala della Pace and the Sala dei Nove, so called because
it was the seat of the "governo dei nove" (the
government of nine), decorated with a series of frescoes
by Ambrogio Lorenzetti. Other important rooms include the
Sala della Balia, the Sala dei Palestri and an exquisite
chapel decorated with frescoes by Taddeo di Bartolo.
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